Showing posts with label Ridgid R4512. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ridgid R4512. Show all posts

Ridgid R4512 Table Saw -- Full Review


The Ridgid R4512 table saw has features -- including an integral lift/caster mechanism, a tool-less blade guard and riving knife, an accurate fence and good dust collection -- on par with much more expensive saws. While it’s easy to get caught up in comparing tolerances, the most important thing to know about a table saw is whether it will do what you need it to do within your budget and space constraints. I generally make furniture and small items in my basement shop. I need a table saw that handles these tasks accurately and safely without making too much dust and noise. For full disclosure, Ridgid sent this saw to me for this article. That said, I think this saw will meet my needs for years to come.

The first thing I notice is that the Ridgid R4512 is imposing enough to inspire confidence. Weighing in at 266 pounds, this thing isn’t going anywhere. To back up that feeling even more, everything under the table is cast iron. There are no plastic gears like on similarly priced saws. The blade height and angle adjustment wheels turn smoothly and lock where you want them. Likewise, the fence, which clamps itself to the front and back of the table, stays where you put it. On the downside, the stamped steel wings are not as flat or substantial as cast iron wings and the edges are rounded, which produces a small seam. This is a feature that I chalk up to the saw’s relatively low price. I will say that the wings are certainly flat enough for my purposes.

The next thing I notice is the saw’s sound, which is more like a cabinet saw than a contractor saw. Instead of a high-pitched screech, the R4512 has a medium-pitched hum (the critical test: my wife can barely hear it on the first floor of our house from my basement shop). As far as vibration, I was able to successfully perform the nickel test and the penny test with no toppling. (See video below.) That isn’t a terribly scientific test, but it does show that the saw’s construction has enough integrity that it can handle the forces of the motor without wobbling. The last thing you want a table saw to do when you are using it is move.


The safety features are a big part of what makes the R4512 so appealing. The two-piece blade guard clicks onto the riving knife and locks into place with a lever, so you don’t have to use a tool to install it. It tilts with the blade to prevent having to remove it for angled cuts (which makes it more likely that users will keep it installed). Likewise, the riving knife has a lever release that allows it to be raised to a high position for through cuts, a medium position that leaves it lower than the blade or removed altogether. It was easy to adjust to be in the same plane as the saw blade. Kick-back pawls are also attached to the riving knife. I found them to be dull where they need to be sharp and sharp where they need to be dull. It is hard to make them grab a board and it is easy for them to scratch a board as it passes under them. My solution will be to sharpen the teeth a bit with a file and dull the bottom edge. The blade guard is very easy to remove and replace. I wish the riving knife were just a hair (almost literally) thinner so it could accommodate thin kerf blades, which are easier on the motors of this category of saw. Some might consider it to be close enough to use with thin kerf blades. It might well be, but I haven’t tested that so I can’t comment on it.

The built-in lift mechanism is strong and works incredibly well. Pushing the foot pedal down makes the saw seem to float. Pull the pedal back up and the saw hits the floor with a satisfying thunk. This feature is critical to me, as my basement shop is not only small but awkwardly spaced. Being able to move the saw around with not much effort helps a great deal.

The aluminum fence, while not perfectly straight, was aligned pretty dead-on out of the box. I took it out of alignment and put it back just so I could see how it works. You loosen four bolts, square the fence to the blade, then re-tighten the bolts. Very straightforward. It moves smoothly on rails at the front and back of the table and locks onto both. Speaking of the rails, because I have such a small space to work in, I’m going to eventually use only the longer of the two pieces so the rails don’t extend as far out and the saw has a smaller footprint. (You can see an example of someone doing that here.) This modification only involves drilling some holes in the aluminum and is something I think Ridgid should consider offering as a feature. One other thing about the fence. The measurement lines are positioned too far to the right, making it impossible to line up the fence to a precise measurement. I’ll come up with a work-around, but this is something that should have been caught at the factory.

The miter gauge feels heavy and substantial and works well. The only problem is that it is difficult to adjust because the fence turns a bit when you tighten it down. I do like the storage place for the miter gauge, which keeps it handy but out of the way. The blade is a 40-tooth combination blade. Mine produced saw-marked rip cuts and cross cuts with tearout. A new blade (or two) will be my first upgrade. Update: I added a brand new Forrest Woodworker II blade and have had excellent results so far.

Another appealing feature of this saw is the dust collection. The motor is enclosed in a cabinet and there is a plastic funnel where sawdust falls. It has a 4” port that fits a standard dust collector hose. In my limited experience, a negligible amount of dust escapes, which is a great thing in my small work area. Another plus is that the cabinet dampens sound. One improvement I would suggest is moving the port, which is located in the center, to one side but still oriented toward the floor. Its current location is right above the cross bar for the lift mechanism, making it difficult to attach the hose. An offset port could be used on the right or left side depending on the user’s dust collection set-up. My solution is to use an adapter with a 2½” hose which is easier to bend without touching the lift mechanism.

Assembling the R4512 was very straightforward. There were no surprises, the instructions were clear, everything was included and nothing had been damaged in shipping. It took me about four hours total to assemble the saw and another two or three to fine tune the blade alignment, angle stops, fence and miter gauge. (You can watch the Keystone Kops version of me assembling the stand here.) One of the criticisms I keep reading about saws with table mounted trunnions is that you can’t align the blade to the miter slot. I can say definitively that the blade on this saw can be aligned. It could be an easier process but it is certainly doable. (You can read about my experience aligning the blade here.) An earlier model, the Ridgid 3650, apparently had a cam system that made aligning the blade very easy. It would be an improvement if the R4512 had the same thing.

Finally, Ridgid offers a lifetime warranty on the R4512. This is an important distinction from the other manufacturers who offer similar versions of this saw. Sears Craftsman offers one year for defects in materials or workmanship (you can purchase additional coverage) and Steel City offers a five-year warranty.

I may nitpick here and there, but I don’t want that to overshadow my very positive feelings about this saw. The build and power, safety features, dust collection and built-in casters make the R4512 work well for my purposes. I fully expect to get years of good use out of this saw. It isn’t as accurate or powerful (or expensive) as higher-premium saws. However, if you want a solid performer with good safety features that is built to last a long time, the Ridgid R4512 will meet that standard.

You can see all my posts about the Ridgid R4512 here. I'll write more posts and film more videos as I use the saw in upcoming furniture projects.

Blade Alignment -- Second Attempt -- Success!

After seriously a couple of hours of toying with the blade alignment, I’ve got it where I want it to be. The good news is that we now know that it is possible to align the blade of this type of saw.

To align the blade on the Ridgid R4512, you remove the back panel and loosen the four bolts that secure the trunions to the table top. That’s a bit easier said than done. Three of the bolts were no big deal, but that fourth bolt was behind the motor, so I had to pull a Plastic Man move to be able to get to it. Once they were all loosened, I was ready to start gently persuading the trunions to move a tiny bit. At one point I had it very close, I’d say about 4/1000ths away, but I just had to go the extra step. Of course, I hit it too hard and knocked everything out of alignment in the other direction. That meant I had to start all over. Also, tightening the bolts was even affecting the alignment. I had many moments of frustration, which my wife can attest to. Then I discovered another way of moving the trunions without having to use a deadblow hammer.


I loosened the screws and applied a clamp between the trunions and the side of the saw. That way, I was able to sort of dial it in. When I was close enough, I tightened the bolts, then removed the clamp. I geeked out a bit more, but I’ll stop there. Suffice it to say the blade is now between 2/1000th and 3/1000th out of parallel with the miter slot – perfectly acceptable.

I used a dial indicator, but I’m not sure if it helped or hurt. It helped in that it was very accurate. But it hurt in that I found myself struggling to achieve a somewhat arbitrary measurement instead of quality saw cuts. Doing some test cuts with a good quality crosscut blade, I was able to make smooth-as-glass cuts with no tear-out at all. That’s the result I was going for all along. I ordered a new blade -- a Forrest Woodworker II combination blade -- and it should be here any day now (I will not comment on how many times per hour I hit refresh on the FedEx tracking number!). I can't wait to try it out.

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I'm working on my full review of the saw and will have it up soon.

Ridgid R4512 Table Saw -- Blade Alignment

After all the hullabaloo I’ve made about being able to align the blade with the miter slot on a saw with table-mounted trunions, it’s time to actually do the deed. I got myself a set of feeler gauges to help with measurements. On my first take, I used a method I’ve seen in several places on the internet. It doesn’t require a dial indicator, which I don’t own. A friend is going to let me borrow one, but if I’m serious about this stuff I need to get one myself. Another thing I’m going to borrow is a good-quality saw blade. That will help me rule out errors caused by a so-so blade instead of the saw. I’ll be getting some new saw blades for myself soon.

I started my test by squaring the miter gauge. If that was out of whack, then it would make everything else that much more difficult. That process proved to be kind of annoying, since the fence moves on the Ridgid miter gauge when you tighten it. After lots of trial and error (more error than trial), I think I got it squared pretty well. Next I made sure the saw blade was perpendicular to the saw table. With that accomplished, I found a piece of cherry that had been jointed to a right angle and clamped it to the miter gauge. I turned on the saw and ran it through, making sure to go through the entire blade. With the saw turned off and unplugged, I positioned the miter gauge so that the just-cut-off piece of wood was near the front of the saw blade. I chose a saw tooth and carefully moved it back and forth against the cherry to see how much it rubbed against it. Then I moved the miter gauge so that the wood was near the back of the saw. I turned the saw blade so that the tooth I tested earlier was next to the wood. This is the critical measurement. Ideally, there should be no gap between the wood and the tooth or, if there is a gap, it should be miniscule – as in less than 3/1000th of an inch.

I got out my set of feeler gauges and tried the one for 3/1000th of an inch. It slid in easily, so I tried 4/1000th and 5/1000th. Turns out that the gap was 6/1000 of an inch. While that isn’t a large gap in the real world, it is unacceptably large for woodworking. On the other end of the spectrum, 2/1000th of an inch or so is acceptable. We aren’t making parts for NASA. And even if we were, wood swells and contracts so much that those measurements are fairly meaningless.

In the next couple nights, using a good-quality blade and perhaps a dial indicator, I’ll confirm my measurements and attempt to align the blade if necessary. Stay tuned.

Ridgid R4512 Table Saw - The Nickel Test

I'm pretty much finished with the basic set-up of my Ridgid R4512 table saw. I've installed the wings and rails and the storage brackets. I've installed the blade, blade guard and safety pawls. I'll do a whole post soon about how to work the safety equipment. The blade guard and pawls install and uninstall very easily, so I'll demonstrate that soon. Otherwise, it's time to do the nickel test to see how well I've done setting things up. The nickel test involves setting a nickel on edge on the table of the saw, turning the motor on and seeing if the vibrations knock the nickel over. If they do, then something is out of whack. When I first turned on the saw, I did notice some vibration but I quickly fixed that by shimming one of the legs. My basement floor is not flat at all, so the saw wasn't sitting solidly on all four legs. When I shimmed the leg and tried again, the vibration totally went away. Here is the real test of whether the saw is in or out of whack (that's a technical term):

Ridgid R4512 Table Saw - Wings and Rails

In bits and pieces, I'm still working on assembling my Ridgid R4512 table saw. I’d say I’m about 3 hours or so into it now, and it’s going well. I haven’t had any problems or run into any damaged parts. I’ve been impressed with the instructions, the hardware and the fit and finish of the parts. There are no sharp edges or burrs anywhere.

While the instructions recommend attaching the wings to the table while the table is still upside down, I chose not to go that route because I still had to lug the saw down some narrow stairs to my basement. It wasn’t difficult at all to install the wings myself with the saw rightside up. I managed to hold a wing in place until I got one bolt in, then it wasn’t a problem to support it as I attached the other two bolts. Since the wings are stamped steel, they aren’t perfectly flat. But once you have all the bolts installed, making the wings flush to the top as you go along, they are pretty darn close. I started by finger-tightening all three bolts on one side so the wing would be supported, then gently tapping the wing up or down and tightening the bolt when I was happy with it. I tested for flatness as I went along with the ruler of my combination square then used a jointed board to test for broader flatness. I also slid the board from the cast iron top over the joint of the wing to make sure there weren’t any high spots that would cause deflection. I also knew that if the outside edges of the wings were too high or low, they could be adjusted when I installed the front and back rails that the fence travels on. I’m very satisfied with how flat I was able to make the top and wings.

The next task was to install the front and back rails. These are a little tricky because the nuts you have to fasten are underneath and behind the rails. It isn’t that big of a deal but it was a little more time-consuming than I thought it would be. Each rail is made of two pieces, and since I’ve got so little space, I was hoping to be able to get away with only using one each on the front and back so they would protrude so far to the right. I predict that I will rarely cut anything that far to the right anyway. But because of the way the holes are drilled, you really have to install them as recommended. That’s one suggestion I would make for Ridgid to consider: give the option of only having the rails cover the length of the top and wings. The extra length gives you the option of adding a router table, and I may well do that so that I can get rid of my stand-alone router table. At one point I had to move the saw a bit because of the length of the rails. The lift mechanism was easy to engage. Once the wheels are down, it feels like this huge saw is floating! But when release the lift, the saw falls straight down with a thump. My wife heard it all the way at the front of the house.

The next steps will be installing the blade, blade guard and safety pawls. After that it is just a matter of doing the finishing touches. Then I’ll be able to actually turn the thing on and give it a go! As always, please let me know if you have specific questions about the saw and I will do my best to answer them.

Ridgid R4512 Table Saw - Attaching Table to Stand

After I assembled the stand on my Ridgid R4512 table saw, I was ready to attach the top but not until I got past the little problem of moving this 266 pound monster down to my basement. A friend (one who is bigger and stronger than me) helped me (more accurately I helped him) tilt the box onto its side, then wiggle the saw out of the box and the Styrofoam. We put it straight onto a heavy-duty dolly and slid a small piece of plywood between the dolly and the saw to make sure the edges of the miter slots didn’t get dinged up. We secured it with a good rope. I was nervous about wheeling the thing down the rickety stairs of my basement but after checking them out, I was confident that they would hold. We went very slowly, one step at a time, with me holding the dolly handle and my friend holding it steady (and bearing most of the weight) from the bottom. I have to say it was not a big deal at all. The dolly worked like a charm and navigating the stairs wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had feared.

Once down in the basement, it was time to put the table onto the stand. I went with the method that was suggested in the instruction manual, which was to turn the top upside down, attach the stand and then turn the whole business rightside up. We lifted the saw, tilted it so it was upside down and let it rest on two boards on the floor. Another suggestion from the manual, that ensured that the top wouldn’t get scraped up on the concrete. We put the dust chute in place (it is basically a funnel that effectively closes off the bottom of the saw cabinet) and set the stand upside down onto the saw cabinet. I secured it with the four provided bolts. The next task was to lift the saw and turn it upright on the floor. As heavy as it was, lifting it up wasn’t as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I was able to try out the lift mechanism and it works well. Now the saw is now in position waiting for me to attach the wings and the rails, and then start working on aligning the blade and the riving knife, attaching the fence and getting it ready to go.

Ridgid R4512 Table Saw - The Unboxing

To back track just a bit, here are some photos of what came inside the box of the Ridgid R4512 table saw. First, there was Styrofoam that contained all the hardware and accessories. Everything was arranged neatly and survived shipping well.


Here are all the hardware parts and accessories, including the fence, the miter guage and the blade guard.

Next came the saw itself, the wings, the dust chute, the sides of the stand and all the parts for the fence guides.

This is looking into the belly of the beast. Everything survived well -- no cracked cast iron. Also, everything is metal -- no plastic gears anywhere to be found. (You can also see the casters for the mobile base.)

Next I'll describe moving the saw to the basement and installing the wings and rails. Stay tuned.

Ridgid R4512 Table Saw - Stand and Caster Assembly (time-lapse and photos)

I’m getting ahead of myself a bit, but I wanted to post this time-lapse of me assembling the stand and casters for the Ridgid R4512 table saw. (Yes, I store my golf clubs in the living room. Don't judge.)


Assembling the stand and casters was very straightforward (despite the number of times you see me staring at the instruction book!). I think it took me about an hour or so. I was impressed by the hardware and how well everything fit together. The caster axles and lifting mechanism are very sturdy and heavy. It was a bit of a challenge to install the casters onto the stand by myself because there is nothing to rest them on as you are attaching the first bolt. But once I attached the first bolt, everything got a lot easier. Having someone help you hold it would save lots of time. I got the feeling right away that the lift mechanism works very well. Pushing the foot pedal gives you a satisfying click when the wheels engage with the floor and lift the stand. This feature is going to be a big help since I have so little space to work with. I’ll be able to easily move the saw around when I need to.

Here are some close-ups.



Thanks to my friend Matt for helping with the time-lapse and adding the Railroad Earth accompaniment.

I Can Has Table Saw

Thursday evening, a brand-spanking-new Ridgid R4512 table saw alighted on my front porch. If that weren’t enough, the really exciting part is that Ridgid provided the saw so I could demonstrate it on Furnitude. (If you look real close on the right side of the photo above, that’s Buster the cat looking on in disbelief.)

The box indicates that the saw weighs 266.76 pounds, and I felt every ounce of it. The delivery truck didn’t have a gate lift, so the driver and I and a neighbor wrestled it down to the street, then lugged it up two runs of steps to our porch and into our living room. One thing I can report is that everything seems to have survived shipping in good shape. Also, it has that new table saw smell.

I contacted several manufacturers about writing reviews of their table saws. Most ignored me. A couple of them declined, which I totally respect. Ridgid is the one that came through. I really appreciate their willingness to take a chance on me. Just to be up front, when I write about something a company has given me, I will always disclose how I got it.

That said, in the coming days and weeks I will write an unboxing post about the R4512 (including lots of photos) and probably several posts about setting it up, tuning it, testing it and using it. I hope to do a couple videos, too. My next tasks are to make my way through the instruction book, assemble the stand and stockpile enough beer to coax my friends into helping me move this beast down to the basement. I now have absolutely no excuse not to make furniture.

The second piece of news is that I'm giving Furnitude a bit of a redesign in the next couple weeks. I hope to make it look a little better and be easier to use. So if you visit and things look weird (more so than usual), that means it's under construction.

Thank you,
The Management